CAPE LOOKOUT WITH
FAIRFIELD HARBOUR YACHT CLUB

One reason we chose this area of North Carolina for retirement was the good sailing possibilities. Fairfield Harbour Yacht Club (FHYC) organizes cruises to many of these and on June 27 through July 2, 2004, they had a cruise going to Cape Lookout National Sea Shore. See photos. See a trip report in the FHYC publication the Semaphore.

Although we had only returned from our Bahamas cruise on June 5, and had spent a week in Kentucky visiting George's dad and collecting the last of our unmoved belongings, we signed up to go. There were seven sailboats and about an equal number of power boats. All but one of the sail boats, ourselves included, anchored the first night at Cedar Creek, an anchorage with which we are familiar.

At Cedar Creek, we participated in our first Splash on board Amazing Grace. Splash is FHYC jargon for a cocktail get together. Everyone brings their own beverages and a snack to share.

At the captains meeting earlier, the trip captain warned everyone that the Beaufort Inlet would be rough when we went through. He also advised that it was best to catch it about an hour after slack tide. We got there at about the right time, and if conditions were typical, we are certainly glad we hit it at the optimum because it was indeed rough.

Conditions improved after we turned out of the inlet and headed east toward Cape Lookout Bight. Still winds were over 20 knots, gusting to near 30 and conditions were by no means smooth. Watching the monohulls following us and later listening to their reports of the passage endorsed our decision to buy a catamaran. We had a good sail across. They rocked and rolled. One woman who claimed never to have been sea sick in 30+ years of sailing, broke her winning streak.

Once in the bight, waters were more protected, but the island is very low and is little protection from the wind. Many boats had problems anchoring. We got in reasonably close to shore to get all the protection we could and were still in over 20 feet of water. A big anchor and lots of chain are the answers to lots of anchoring issues, and we were trouble free.

The Monday night Splash was cancelled since dinghy rides were not going to be comfortable. We proved this by getting soaked with wind blown spray when we took Toby ashore.

Tuesday morning brought much improved conditions. We contacted Windfall to see if Zoe, their Portuguese Water Dog wanted to join Toby for a run on the Beach. When they arrived, they brought Hardy from Karma with his water dog. The dogs played on the beach but Toby was a bit much for the other dogs. I don’t think he is their favorite. He is obsessive about his ball rather than being a good playmate.

We did see a water spout which dissipated prior to reaching the FHYC fleet. It would not be good to get caught in one, but we couldn’t help put be awed by it. It was something to see. We took a few pictures with our old Cannon point and shoot camera without zoom, so they aren’t as detailed as we would like. Unfortunately, our good digital camera jumped off the shelf and committed suicide on the cabin sole plate during the rough exit through the inlet.

Tuesday was topped off by the Splash aboard Lee Ward.

Weather conditions and some mechanical problems caused many boats to consider shortening the trip so beach activities scheduled for Wednesday were moved up to Tuesday. We played three games on the beach and it was fun to see a bunch of old people playing like kids. There were three events all of which were won by the sail boaters. The second, however, was taken from us on a technicality but we still won the match with two out of the three events. The victors received candy suckers.

One FHYC couple brought their 17’ Boston Whaler to ferry sight seers to the light house. The Sunspot Baby crew took full advantage and enjoyed the visit even though the light house is opened only occasionally and we could not go in. We visited the gift shop and displays in the old light keepers’ house.

The gift shop is the only commercial facility on the shore. There is nothing else there. No shops, cafes, tourist attractions, or infrastructure. Anything you want while you are there, you must bring, and everything has to be taken out. There aren’t even trash receptacles in the toilets at the visitor center. You must carry your trash off the island.

Wednesday saw the departure of over half the fleet leaving only five sail boats and a single power boat. That evening we had a Splash on Karma, the power boat. The sea shell judging was performed at the Splash and George won the most unusual shard with a very unique partial whelk shell.

Thursday was our planned departure. Slack tide was near 1:00 and an 11:00 departure would be about right to catch slack water. Sunspot Baby was ready to go well ahead of that and we opted to sail away and take our chances with the current in the inlet. We pulled up the hook, hoisted the main and took off about 10:00.

We did lose about 2 knots coming in the inlet and even with the sails, had a hard time maintaining more than 4 knots. Once in the turning basin, things were better and we motor sailed under the Morehead City bridge. This maneuver caused a certain member of the crew some consternation, but all went well. 

The current ran strong up the ICW and we did not make good time. On the trip down, we found we could only get 2,500 rpm at full throttle and suspect a dirty fuel filter is limiting flow. This problem kept us from running up the revs and making better time. Still we were back at Cedar Creek at least two hours ahead of the two sailboats that waited until 11:00 to depart.

We held a late Splash for the three boats aboard Sunspot Baby and Lynn made a rum punch which was well received. We ran much longer than those earlier in the week and our four guests departed in time to get back to their vessels before it became completely dark.

Friday, found us with no more than 2 knots of wind and we had a hot motor back to our slip. For us, at least, it was a good first trip with FHYC. It was also our first experience with buddy boating. We are not used to that much interaction on the radio and on the water with other yachters. It was a nice change.