CRUISE #3
SOUTH BOUND IN U.S. WATERS

NORTH CAROLINA

Getting away this year was more of a strain. So much of our work was delayed to allow for a bottom job in mid November and headliner work in early December. Added to the normal boat chores, we had house sitters to consider for the first time. We had to clear clothes, computers, and other personal items from the house to give them reasonable space for their possessions.

Our target departure date was Thursday, December 15, and we did get everything on board and ready to leave by mid-day. On board, and put away are two very different things. We decided to spend an extra day at the dock, get a few things in ship shape, and decompress a bit before departing.

Friday morning two pair of neighbors, the Hickmans and Trubianos joined us on the boat for coffee. Both brought goodies for our trip. About 10:00 we cast off. They played “friendly native” and waved from the dock as we departed.

If you could run a full day and then drop the hook where ever you are, it would be great. Unfortunately, it seems suitable anchorages and/or marinas are irregularly spaced. We went only as far as Oriental the first day and spent a nice night at the town dock. Temperatures were near freezing and we gave our new/used kerosene heater its first try. It keeps the cabin about 10 degrees warmer than the outside temperature, so we were cool but OK in our sleeping bags.

We spent two nights in Swansboro in a basic but cheap marina, Dudley’s. There we were plugged into shore power and could run our electric heater which does some better than the kerosene at heating. It rained and the wind howled all night.

This part of the NC coast runs more west than south, but the thought was there. We actually saw the sun for the first time in the cruise. Four bridges, two with restricted openings stretched our time so that we got into Masonboro Boat Yard just before dark. Our friends from Wrightsville Beach, the Meskauskases came aboard for wine, and then we went to dinner.

As we headed for Myrtle Beach we suffered a linkage problem on the port engine in the Cape Fear River. Southport Marina, just beyond the Cape Fear inlet had mechanics that could look at the problem so we stopped there. Amazingly, they found the problem quickly and had us ready to go in the late afternoon.

December 21, we headed toward South Carolina. Happy first day of winter 12/21/05.

SOUTH CAROLINA

We planned to stop at the free dock at Barefoot Landing in the Myrtle Beach area, but temperatures were forecast to be in the low 20’s and we were concerned that even with our little kerosene heater, it would be too uncomfortable on the boat without power. We stopped short at Coquina Yacht Club where good docks are reasonably priced. We spent two nights to avoid the coldest weather.

When we left, there was frost all over the boat and ice on the port lights. It was 10:30 before the shady side (starboard) melted off and we could walk the decks outside the cockpit in relative safety. The day did turn out nice but night time lows were still in the low 30’s so we opted for power at Georgetown Landing. Our plan was to anchor a couple of nights in Georgetown, but obviously that changed.

Weather on Christmas, the day we had planned to move to the Charleston, area was forecast windy and rainy. We went a day early and had wonderful weather.

We spent our first Christmas together on the boat and had a great day. We called the Higgins through the afternoon to let them know we were in the area. They had dinner guests who had missed a plane and would be late. We were invited to fill the empty chairs and shared a great holiday feast with them.

We laundered, visited, and used the marina sauna for a few nice days. Then with Don, Bob, and Mike, we motored past the Ben Sawyer and into Charleston Harbor a day before George’s appointment with the USCG. The appointment went well, and we made plans to leave the morning of the 29^th. Of course, the best laid plans . . . The starboard engine wouldn’t start when it came time to leave. Believing it was a solenoid but not wanting to just start replacing parts, we called a mechanic. About 5:00 pm. He showed; spent 15 minutes on the boat confirming that she wouldn’t start and promised to return the next morning, which he did. He pulled the starter, believing it defective and took it along to buy another. It tested OK on the bench which sent us in search of another base cause. Battery cable. Yeap, something as simple as that. Of course by the time we tracked it down and put a new one on, it was too late to get far before dark. Another night in the marina.

New Year’s Eve found us on the move again and anchoring at Steamboat Creek, one of our favorite places. Then, the outboard didn’t want to start. Toby stayed aboard for the night and in spite of much encouragement held off until we were in Beaufort on January 1, to do his duty.

The second was filled with rain and wind. We filled with fuel, did laundry, shopped, and got the outboard going. Even with wind and rain, it is warm enough that we haven’t run a heater the last couple of nights. Remembering nights in Northern Florida last year, we have not, however, stowed them out of the way or put away the sleeping bags. Tomorrow, on to Georgia.

GEORGIA

The weather was improving and we needed a heater less. We tied up at Thunderbolt Marina, just outside Savannah, and then anchored in the Wahoo River and Frederica River. We made a brief visit to historic Fort Frederica. January 6^th we headed for Florida waters.

FLORIDA

We hit marinas at Jacksonville Beach and Palm Coast. Beach Marine a previous favorite has raised rates so high that they will now be only a last resort stop. The hotel and restaurant at Palm Coast has been razed and a new facility is planned. Marina and staff continue to be good.

We tied to a free dock in New Smyrna and then anchored near down town Cocoa. Both had nice little down town areas. We had iced coffee in New Smyrna and ice cream in Cocoa.

We picked up moorings in Vero Beach and Stuart. We spent several days, as planned, in Stuart to do some of the continuous repairs, provision and launder. A new battery for the generator solved a starting problem. Unfortunately, we suffered other problems after Stuart and its continued use is in question.

We anchored in Lake Worth where we planned to jump outside and run to Ft. Lauderdale in a day. Weather however looked unfavorable so we faced moving down the ICW through 20 bridges and all the weekender boat wakes.

As we neared Boca Raton, we found the whole area to be “no wake”. Our anchorage there, which we expected to be rough and noisy due boat traffic, was wonderful. We saw 4 or 5 manatee very close to the dinghy when we took Toby to the nearby park and launch ramp for his shore patrol.

From Boca Raton to Ft. Lauderdale, they have passed “no wake on weekend” rules and except for bridge timing, the inland route is much better than in years past. I know the power boaters probably hate this, but the residents along the waterway and certainly we sail boaters certainly benefited.

We spent a few nights at Fun In The Sun docks in Ft. Lauderdale, restocked fresh vegetables, and worked on the generator. From there we moved to Crandon Park Marina and spent three nights on a mooring. The story of finding and getting on the mooring could fill pages. We bussed into Key Biscayne and did a little shopping and sight seeing.

George Stateham

Next Report: Florida to Nassau Passage Report