STANIEL TO RED SHANK

Backing up a bit, some didn’t get the pig report.  Briefly, Big Major’s Island near Staniel Cay has a community of wild pigs.  We had heard it was ok to take dogs ashore if you didn’t see the pigs, because “they are either there or they aren’t there”…meaning on another part of the island.  We landed the dinghy, I headed out with Toby (thankfully on a leash) and once ashore was met by four quite large very pink pigs looking for treats.  I proceeded to drag Toby back to the dinghy, in knee high water, with the pigs in fast pursuit and Toby straining to get a better look at the pursuers.

After Staniel, we spent two nights at Black Point, a charming little Bahamian community.  We did laundry in the cleanest, if not the cheapest, laundromat in the Bahamas, and had a cracked conch lunch at Lorraine’s Café. 

February 17, we went through Dotham Cut into Exuma Sound headed south toward George Town.  The plan was if it was too uncomfortable, we would only go 30 miles instead of 50, and stop at Lee Stocking Island for the night.  George did a good job of steering us out of Dotham Cut against the current.  Outside in the sound, winds were NE-E less than 15, but there was a lumpy NE swell running of about 3-5 ft.  There was some whining about this in the cockpit (from me), but we decided to press on to George Town.  We motor sailed all day, but a good part of the time the engines were in neutral so we could make water and run the inverter.  At Conch Cay Cut, the entrance to George Town, George sailed in with no engine help - and it’s a tricky entrance in any circumstance, and he was thrilled to do this.

We anchored at the north end of Hamburger Beach, and immediately were immersed in the Social Scene.  There was a concert at the beach that night – the Bilge Boys were playing.  If you aren’t sure where an event is happening, just look for about a hundred dinghies on the beach and you are there.  Good music and a fun welcome to George Town. 

The latest boat count is over 400.  This is the high season, with regatta week starting March 3.   The anchorages are crowded, but we have found room to spare in the spots we picked, without snuggling up too close to our neighbors.

The next event was a dinghy raft up.  Bring your dinghy, a snack and the beverage of your choice.  Everyone rafts to one anchored dinghy, and then the anchor is lifted and you drift where the winds take you.  There were over 80 dinghies in this raft up.  The sunset was heralded with many conch horns from numerous dinghies.  Of course, we met folks from two dinghies who live in Fairfield Harbour, and heard of one additional boat from FFH as well.  Next time we will bring a NC flag, as many boats brought their state flags.

We wanted to go to Conception Island – or somewhere, during the nice weather window, but we opted to stay an extra day to listen to Chris Parker, a weather guru who broadcasts Caribbean and Bahamas weather daily on single side band radio, and to hear Eileen Quinn, a sailor singer songwriter for the “nautically afflicted.”  Both events were very good and we are happy to have participated.  Chris Parker was at Eileen’s concert.  George took some good photos of him doing the “anchoring dance” and delivered them to him before we took off the next day for Conception.

The trip to Conception took us out the North Channel Rocks exit, and then on a straight bearing across the northern tip of Long Island to Conception Island.  It is a small island, just a couple of miles in either direction, with the Exuma Sound on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other.  We have been sailing more this year, and it was a good day to have the sails up.  I caught a fish – a Spanish mackerel.  But it’s not my favorite fish – scaly and strong flavored – so we tossed it back.  Nevertheless, the thrill of the catch was fun, and he lived to swim another day.  I have regretted that a little since, because they do make good curry.

Once around the point of Long Island, we found ourselves being carried a little off course – courtesy of the Antilles Current, which comes all the way from Africa and sets to the Northwest at about 1 knot.  As we neared Conception Island, it dissipated.  There is very deep water close to the island, and then white sand, coral heads, reefs, and beautiful white sand beaches.  The interior of the island is mangrove swamp, and a haven for sea turtles, rays, sharks, and fish.

We weren’t even at the island yet when a call came on the radio from Eldridge C, who was organizing an evening beach get-together.  We anchored, took Toby ashore, made a quick cocktail snack, put some wine in a plastic bottle, and off we went to meet new people with common interests.

It’s difficult to pick an all round Bahamas favorite, but, Conception ranks right up there.  Cruising the Bahamas, we have been sad not to find a nice little reef near our anchorage, where we could just “fall into the water” and snorkel or dive.  We had it at this spot.  The reef is deeper than we would wish – 6 ft. low water - , but then again, we can anchor our boat near it and not worry about dragging over it.   There are bits and pieces in the cruising guides about good diving spots in the vicinity, the beaches are beautiful, and the flotsam provides good beach combing opportunities.  Conception is a Bahamas National Park, but you are allowed to fish the waters.  We had heard about “Sea Beans”, a hard, nut with an almost polished look that floats the currents to the beaches.  You see them further polished and made into necklaces, which cruisers wear.  I found one on the beach at Conception!

We took the dinghy on a fairly long ride to the entrance to the mangrove creek that forms the interior of Conception.  We were about an hour after low tide, and there is a rocky bar across the entrance.  But George had no trouble getting us through.  The water is green, and deeper than the mangrove creeks at Shroud Cay.  Dark shapes darting at warp speed are sea turtles.  Occasionally they pop their heads up for positive identification.  We saw a nurse shark, a big barracuda, fish, and sea birds. 

Our chart book recommends Conception as a day anchorage only, but our cruising guide says you can move from one side to another when a front comes through.  We spent two nights in this beautiful spot, and headed back to George Town because of a front which promised some pretty high winds.  The day of our return back to George Town  there was absolutely no wind – we did not catch any fish, and it was about 100 degrees in the cockpit.   But the water was flat, the sky was blue, and it was a nice day to be on the water.  We had a finger food lunch – roasted rotisserie chicken that we had “foodsavered” and frozen in North Carolina – cut up – chunks of cheese, crackers, cookies, and lemonade.

Red Shanks is about a 15 minute dinghy ride from George Town, but it is a good place to be when a front comes through.  We anchored in Hole #3 – the furthest back, most protected, and hardest to get to.  George did a great job of getting us in here at mid tide.  We draw about 4’ when loaded, and we saw 3.9’ on the depth meter once making the entry.  But we never touched bottom. Depth meter must have a small fudge factor. We have, however, been aground at 3.7’ when less heavily laden.

As the pre-frontal activity started, we all got soaked taking Toby to shore.  Swimming attire became the standard garb for Toby trips.   We worked on a long list of boat tasks while the weather blew through.

Regatta started last night night at Volleyball Beach.  Margaritaville is the theme for this year.  The best “ParrotHead” get up, in my opinion, was Linda from L’Attitude, sporting her (live) African Grey Parrot on top of her hat.

Good Things:

Bad Things:     

Lynn Stateham

Next Report: Great Exuma driving day